Dog salmon! It’s hard to imagine what it would look like. Four-legged fish with floppy ears running along the beach! I do not believe it.
The Coast Salish (First Nations peoples) on Vancouver Island are called Chum or Keta Salmon, Dog Salmon. Chum salmon develop a very hooked jaw with fierce teeth at spawning. Maybe that’s why they were called Dog Salmon. Chum, on average, weighs eight to ten pounds and is around 40 inches long. Its oceanic silver-bluish-green coloration changes at spawning to a spotted purplish-red with distinct yellow and pink vertical bars on the sides. They are an ugly fish!
When we get to Qualicum Beach (which means, “where the dog salmon runs”), the last image that comes to mind is the dog salmon. Qualicum Beach is a picturesque town in the middle of absolute paradise. Everything is beautiful, from the endless long sandy and pebble beaches to the beautiful snow capped mountains that provide a backdrop to the area. The city has worked hard to preserve its heritage, which is obvious by walking through the city center. A heritage style design predominates, providing a pleasant village atmosphere. Wherever we go, from the spectacular heritage-designed Quality Foods grocery store to funky Smithford’s, we meet some very friendly people.
Qualicum Beach City Hall
Photo by Ron Kirstein
Finding a place to stay is not difficult. The area has a large number of accommodations, from bed and breakfasts to motels and resorts. We chose the Seaview Beach Resort because we are having a family reunion. The quaint cabins range from 1 to 3 bedrooms and are fully equipped. When we walk out our door, in a matter of seconds, we are on the beach. The Seaview is off the road and ranks among modern residential properties. It is very quiet and peaceful. Across the street we discovered a large Federal Wildlife Sanctuary. As we walk along the beach and the road, we drool over the amazing new waterfront homes. My wife is examining the fire pit where she will roast her swamp mellows as soon as the sun goes down.
One of the beautiful houses along the seashore.
Photo by Ron Kirstein
Now we are installed in our cabin by the sea. Besides the obvious, we take a look to see what we can do while in paradise. Locals inform us that you can walk the beach almost continuously for about 50 km (30 miles) along the shoreline, with the exception of the interruptions of two rivers, the Englishman and the French Creek. When the tide goes out, it seems like we can walk halfway to the mainland.
Wherever you go in Qualicum you will see immaculate gardens, so we decided to check out some of the attractions. Milner Gardens and Woodlands is a rare property located on the shores of the Strait of Georgia. It has a 10 acre garden complete with a house of character that is used primarily as a tea house. The garden is surrounded by an additional 60 acres of coastal Douglas fir trees. Malaspina-University College acquired the site from Veronica Milner in 1996. Veronica’s mother was a cousin of Winston Churchill. Much of the royal family has visited or stayed in the gardens.
From the tea room and gardens you can enjoy unearthly views of the Strait of Georgia and the coastal mountains on the mainland. The Gardens and Woodland is operated by a non-profit horticultural society with the mission of maintaining and restoring gardens and buildings. Volunteers and students perform much of the maintenance of the gardens under the supervision of the horticultural staff. I recommend these gardens and walks in the woods.
Looking for a tourist trap? Well the best tourist trap in BC is the Old Country Market in Coombs. A few kilometers from Qualicum you will find a rural market with goats living on the roof. This eclectic market has something for everyone. My favorite is the ice cream bar. It is not just any ice cream bar. It is about 40 feet long and offers many options for ice cream, sorbet, and gelato. A single cone cost me only $ 3.00 and I swear I had a pound of ice cream. After eating the mound on top, I gobbled ice cream to the bottom of the waffle cone. I consider myself an ice cream fan and have never seen such a generous place. This is a market store with vegetables, meats, food specialties, clothing, toys, unique gifts, and much more. It also has a very fine restaurant that seems to efficiently serve an endless lineup. You have my vote for the best tourist trap in the world!
The area has some of the best provincial parks in British Columbia. If you like camping, hiking, exploring the beach, or visiting spectacular waterfalls, you must visit Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park, Englishman River Falls Provincial Park, Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park, and Cathedral Grove Provincial Park. Other attractions can be found throughout the area by visiting the web at http://tourismmall.victoria.bc.ca/aavanisle/pqattract.htm